Niba ukunda igikapu, nigitabo kivuga ngo ukoreshe uruhu, ni ubuhe buryo bwa mbere? Urwego rwohejuru, rworoshye, rusanzwe, ruhenze cyane… Ibyo aribyo byose, ugereranije nibisanzwe, birashobora guha abantu ibyiyumvo byohejuru. Mubyukuri, gukoresha uruhu rwukuri 100% bisaba ubuhanga bwinshi bwo gutunganya ibikoresho byibanze bishobora gukoreshwa mubicuruzwa, bityo igiciro cyibikoresho fatizo kizaba kinini.
Ubwoko butandukanye, muyandi magambo, uruhu narwo rushobora kugabanywa murwego rwohejuru kandi ruri hasi. Ikintu cyambere cyingenzi muguhitamo iki cyiciro ni 'uruhu rubisi'. 'Uruhu rwumwimerere' ntabwo rutunganijwe, uruhu rwinyamanswa. Ibi nabyo ni ngombwa, kandi nabyo ni ngombwa, ariko ntanumwe murimwe ushobora kugereranya nubwiza bwibikoresho fatizo. Kuberako iki kintu kizagira ingaruka kumiterere yibicuruzwa byose.
Niba dushaka guhindura uruhu mbisi mubikoresho byibicuruzwa, tugomba kunyura munzira yitwa 'uruhu rwo gutwika'. Ibi byitwa 'Tanning' mu Cyongereza; ni '제혁 (tanning)' mu kinyakoreya. Inkomoko y'iri jambo igomba kuba 'tannin (tannin)', bisobanura ibikoresho fatizo bishingiye ku bimera.
Uruhu rwinyamanswa rutatunganijwe rukunda kubora, ibyonnyi, ibumba nibindi bibazo, bityo bigakorwa ukurikije intego yo gukoresha. Izi nzira zose hamwe zitwa "gukanika". Nubwo hariho uburyo bwinshi bwo gukanika, "tannin tanned uruhu" na "chrome tanned uruhu" bikoreshwa cyane. Umusaruro mwinshi wuruhu ushingiye kuri ubu buryo bwa 'chrome'. Mubyukuri, ibice birenga 80% byumusaruro wimpu bikozwe muri 'chrome uruhu'. Ubwiza bwuruhu rwimeza rwimboga nibyiza kurenza uruhu rusanzwe, ariko mugikorwa cyo gukoresha, isuzuma riratandukanye bitewe nuburyo butandukanye mubyo ukunda kugiti cyawe, bityo rero formula "imboga zometseho uruhu = uruhu rwiza" ntibikwiye. Ugereranije na chrome uruhu rwahinduwe, imboga zometseho uruhu ziratandukanye muburyo bwo gutunganya hejuru.
Muri rusange, kurangiza uruhu rwa chrome ruhu ni ugukora ibintu bimwe na bimwe hejuru; uruhu rwimeza rwimeza ntirukeneye ubu buryo, ariko rugumana imyunyu yumwimerere nuburyo bwuruhu. Ugereranije nimpu zisanzwe, ziraramba kandi zirahumeka, kandi ifite ibiranga koroshya gukoresha. Ariko, mubijyanye no gukoresha, hashobora kubaho izindi ngaruka zitabanje gutunganywa. Kuberako nta firime yo gutwikira, biroroshye gushushanya no kwanduzwa, birashobora rero kuba ikibazo gito kubicunga.
Umufuka cyangwa igikapu kugirango umarane igihe runaka numukoresha. Kubera ko nta gipfundikizo kiri hejuru y’uruhu rwimeza rwatsi, rufite ibyiyumvo byoroshye cyane nkuruhu rwabana mugitangira. Nyamara, ibara ryayo nuburyo bizahinduka buhoro buhoro kubera impamvu nkigihe cyo gukoresha nuburyo bwo kubika.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Mutarama-17-2023
